Gilgandra stands as the proud birthplace of the Coo-ee spirit during World War 1, a heritage that continues to captivate and beckon travellers from all corners of the globe. There are two main options when driving to Gilgandra from Sydney. The most common is a five and a half hour journey via Katoomba (or Bilpin if you take Bell’s Line of Road) then Lithgow and Mudgee. But if you prefer no traffic lights, you can add half an hour to your trip and take the Hume Highway north towards Newcastle and then head inland via the Hunter Expressway and Dunedoo. The quickest route is an hour flight to Dubbo, serviced by Qantas or Rex followed by car hire to Gilgandra, about 65 kilometres northwest. You can also travel by train by catching the XPT from Sydney to Dubbo but it takes about six and a half hours followed by a bus to Gilgandra. 

If you have time, a must stop on the way via the Hunter Expressway, especially for those with children in tow in Denman. A brand new adventure playground has opened not too far from cafes with fabulous coffee for Mum and Dad. Not to be missed half an hour further along is the Merriwa Bakery where a pie or a cheese and bacon sausage roll is a must. Of course if you travel over the Blue Mountains, a break in the picturesque food and wine town of Mudgee is one for the itinerary.

Gilgandra is probably the last place you’d expect to find a wine bar that could pass for something out of SOHO New York. But that is exactly what you’ll find at The Meating Place. Set in a restored butchery, on Miller Street, you’ll find wine and tapas as well as good coffee, gelato and local ‘goat meat pies’.  It also serves as a boutique fruit and vegetable grocer making it much more than your average general store. 

If you’re looking for a cold beer and a good feed, then the Royal Hotel in the Main Street is for you. Initially named the Bridge Hotel in 1892 due to its proximity to the first Castlereagh River bridge on Bridge Street, the Royal has played a pivotal role in Gilgandra's history. It’s where the renowned Coo-ee March, recruiting WW1 soldiers, commenced. In 1955, a devastating flood prompted extensive renovations, including a new brick exterior. The hotel's historic grapevine, likely planted in the early 1900s, still thrives, providing refreshing summer shade in the beer garden and yielding grapes annually.

Grab a coffee and breakfast in town at one of several cafes including the local newsagent, Koda Cafe, Keystone, The Meating Place or Johnsons Family Store. Then explore the scenic Windmill Walk along the Castlereagh River, connecting Gilgandra's CBD and the Coo-ee Heritage and Information Centre. This two-kilometre trail features native flora, colorful windmills adorned with local artwork, pet-friendly access, and picnic facilities. After you’ve been here, pop across the road to the Orana Cactus World. You’ll be instantly transported to Palm Springs as you explore up to 1,000 species of cacti collected from around the world for more than 70 years. This large collection has grown to be one of the largest private collections of cacti in the country.

Macanbar Emu Farm & Emu Logic is located 45 minutes northeast of Gilgandra, not far from the world renowned Warrumbungle National Park. Here you can get up close and personal with an emu, Australia’s largest bird. You can even meet the emu’s face to face on one of the emu tours. The Emu Logic farm shop sells everything emu; from emu oil to emu eggs and emu jerky. During the School Holidays they open everyday 10am - 4pm with tours running at 11am and 2pm. Make sure you book in advance and check ahead of time if you're planning a visit as times may vary. From here head half an hour west to Armatree, where you can enjoy a cold beer at the Armatree Hotel. The family friendly pub was built in 1929 and voted Best Bush Pub in 2018 & 2019.

Complete your day by watching the spectacular sunset over the western plains at the Collie Hotel. Collie is a village of less than 40 people about 30 minutes west of Gilgandra on the Warren Road. Here you'll experience genuine country hospitality and savor a diverse menu for both lunch and dinner. Their local crumbed lamb cutlets are a signature dish and not to be missed. The pub's rustic charm extends to its surroundings, featuring expansive verandahs, a delightful beer garden, a warming wood fire, and TV entertainment. To top it off, there are outdoor seating areas and a spacious children's playground out the front. Pick up one of their famous ‘Collie hats’ and a selfie with publicans Tom and Emily to remember the occasion. Don’t forget to look up on your way home as you spend some time stargazing at the incredible night sky.

Jen grew up in Bathurst in central west NSW but now calls Gilgandra home. She lives on a mixed enterprise farm with her husband and two young children.