Dungog

In 24 hours, capture the spirit of Australia through Dungog’s unique living landscapes, historical buildings and sense of character.

Leaving Sydney midday Friday - where to stop

In under 3.5 hours, a train from Sydney Central can deliver you directly to Dungog, making for a stress-free start to your weekend. The Brisbane line usually leaves from Platform 5 at 2.40pm on a Friday afternoon. Tickets are $32 one way if you book in advance and first class is only $10 more for extra legroom and better reclining seats. There’s something about wine in a plastic cup, ordered from a buffet cart that really gets a long weekend on track.

If you would rather leave Sydney on your own steam and schedule a leisurely lunch stop into your itinerary, Saddles at Mount White is just an hour from Sydney and will offer you a taste of the countryside before you reach it. 

Although conveniently located just a few minutes off the Pacific Highway, The Homestead is far from the usual ‘pit stop’ and is surrounded by magical flora and fauna.

The bakehouse and restaurant works with local, artisan producers to capture the taste of Australia on a plate. 

However, it’s important to offer a word of warning; it’s easy to get caught up in the afternoon sunshine on the deck, peering over the peaceful dam and forget to leave. Dungog is a further two hours drive north on the Pacific Highway, turning off at Taro.

Friday night - what to eat, what to do

Nothing says ‘Friday afternoon’ like a cold beer. Hop on down to the Tinshed Brewery on Dowling Street (the town’s main strip) where you’ll find teachers, tradies and the rest of the town gathering for knock-offs. 

More than just a one-trick-pilsner, the crafty husband and wife proprietors serve their own beers as well as local gins, wines and have quality non-alcoholic choices too. From the simple yet filling menu, the smoked brisket burger has become somewhat famous. Smaller snacks like cheese and crackers are also available. The friendly and lively bar authentically represents the feel of the whole town and will quickly make you feel at home. For seven years the TInshed has brought the town alive in the evening. The site at 109 Dowling Street was built as a baker’s shop in 1880 then subsequently transformed into a billiard saloon, an Oyster Saloon, butcher’s shop and even a dental hospital before it became the Tinshed. Now a Dungog institution, the bar wouldn’t look out of place in a trendy, gentrified inner-west suburb.

Saturday morning - what to eat, what to do

Farm fresh produce goes together with charming countryside like tea and honey or jam and bread… all of which you can find on a Saturday morning at the local growers market. Held outside the CWA on Dowling Street, it’s a well-supported weekly event. Although modest, the market offers a quaint, pre-coffee stroll and rural community ambience in abundance.

You’ll likely be lured almost immediately to the Fosterton Biodynamic Bakery ‘bread van’ which exclusively visits on a Saturday. Unsurprisingly, the almond croissants don’t last long. You’ll smell them before you see them, guaranteed. 

Conveniently, opposite the markets you’ll find a cute, aptly named cafe, ‘The Barn’, serving Seven Miles coffee and plenty of vegan options. Previously (and hopefully not so aptly named) it was the Dead Dog cafe but the quality of the coffee remains. 

The stunning stained glass window is one of the original features of the building which was built in 1927 and interestingly has been a cafe or restaurant of some description ever since.

Saturday afternoon - what to eat, what to do

There is nothing more terrifying than recommending a new ‘weekend walk’ to a Sydney-sider who is spoiled with harbour beaches and cliffside circuits at home. However, Dungog delivers everything the city can’t, surrounded by serene forests and lush greenery.

The Barrington Tops National Park is a hiker’s haven with yet-to-be-discovered paths winding alongside well-traipsed trails of varying lengths. 

The Blue Gum Loop track is 4kms and should suit everyone in a group. Surprisingly quiet, it follows the Williams River through the rainforest and back via Crystal Pools. Of course, the namesake, the Blue Gum trees are breathtaking. They offer a canopy and a shelter to ensure you can complete the loop, whatever the weather.  If you’re more of a two-wheeled sightseeer, you can hire bikes in town at Speedy Cycles and cover more kilometers.

‘The Common’ also known as Recreation Reserve Mountain Bike Trails, are managed by Ride Dungog. It’s closer to town and offers 22kms of uninterrupted, single track.

Saturday night - what to eat, what to do

Dungog's rich architectural heritage led to its recognition as a Heritage Conservation Area by the NSW Government. The main street is framed by quaint shop fronts that have seen changing times over the last 100 years but have barely changed themselves, offering the opportunity to literally gaze into an unequivocal sense of the town in days gone by. 

The James Theatre on Brown Street is hailed as the oldest operating cinema in Australia and held its first ‘picture show’ in 1912. The theatre had a ‘Spanish mission’ renovation in the 1930s, leaving it with an almost religious aesthetic. Suitably so, considering vIsiting the theatre has become a ritual for locals who support everything from community drama productions, blockbuster movie releases, and country music performances. Check the community run website to find out what’s on. If you’re lucky you might be able to catch a live show to commemorate your visit. 

The local pubs are also worth a visit. From 1854, there were four pubs roaring with trade. Today two still operate and offer a nucleus for the town; The Settlers Arms on Brown Street and The Royal Hotel on Dowling Street.

Well, I hope we’ve inspired you to hit the road and head to Gulgong some time soon. Join us again on Country Calendar to discover how to spend 24 hours in Australia’s tiny (but terrific) rural towns. Till next time…

Fun facts

  • The railway line to Dungog arrived in 1911, before the town had electricity which didn’t arrive until 1917.
  • One of the town’s favourite pubs has a well-known, resident ghost… but don’t worry, she’s friendly. The ex-publican of The Settlers Arms still likes to hang out there and has a
Author:  
Emma Thomson

Emma writes about travel with an unapologetic appreciation for alliteration and adventure. She loves interviewing people with opposing views and writing opinion pieces. (She’s got a lot of those…)

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