Coonabaranbran

Coonabarabran; the gateway to the Warrumbungles and Australia’s dark sky capital.

Leaving Sydney midday Friday - where to stop

Located 500 kilometres northwest of Sydney, Coonabarabran welcomes tourists from around the world and is neatly positioned as the halfway point for inland travellers driving between Melbourne and Brisbane. 

When visiting the central west town from Sydney, there are two main routes to consider. The most common six-and-a-half-hour drive via Katoomba (or Bilpin, choosing Bell's Line of Road), Lithgow, Mudgee, and Gilgandra offers a picturesque route. But if you’d like a traffic-light-free adventure and have time to add just half an hour to your drive, take the Hume Highway north to Newcastle, then inland via the Hunter Expressway and Dunedoo.

For a quicker option, catch a one-hour flight to Dubbo (serviced by Qantas or Rex), followed by a scenic 145-kilometre drive north to Coonabarabran with a rental car. Alternatively, choose a train ride, taking the XPT from Sydney to Dubbo (approximately six and a half hours), followed by a bus to Coonabarabran.

Make the most of your journey with worthwhile pit stops. In Denman, enjoy a brand-new adventure playground near charming cafes serving aromatic gourmet coffee. A half-hour ahead, Merriwa Bakery beckons with mouthwatering pies and delectable cheese and bacon sausage rolls. If your travels lead you through the Blue Mountains, don't miss the opportunity to explore the food and wine region of Mudgee.

Friday night - what to eat, what to do

The Golden Sea Dragon Chinese restaurant is quite an icon in the region. This place is your quintessential country town Chinese restaurant. Step inside and the essence is palpable; vivid red sauces, the satisfying crunch of spring rolls, and the attention-grabbing sizzle of Mongolian lamb create a symphony of flavors that transport you to a culinary adventure. Turn in for an early night as an action packed Saturday awaits.

Saturday morning - what to eat, what to do

No trip to Coonabarabran or ‘Coona’ as the locals affectionately call it, is complete without a stop at the local Coonabarabran Bakery. Famous for its pies and finger buns (adorned in pink icing), this is a great place to grab breakfast, a coffee and some supplies for your adventure into the Warrumbungle National Park. You can also try Feathers Cafe for a sit down breakfast/brunch. 

The Warrumbungle Visitor Centre is a half hour drive from Coonabarabran. The National Park offers a stunning array of hikes from easy to difficult. The Breadknife and Grand High Tops Walk spans 14.5 kilometres, showcasing iconic volcanic formations like the towering Breadknife.

The moderately challenging Belgourey Split Rock Walking Track covers 4.6 kilometres, leading to Split Rock's summit for breathtaking views of the Warrumbungle mountain and vast Western Plains. 

The 17-kilometre Mount Exmouth Walking Track, though challenging, rewards with a summit panorama and encounters with native wildlife. For birdwatching and a family-friendly stroll, the 2-kilometre Burbie Canyon Walking Track is perfect. 

Lastly, the wheelchair-accessible Whitegum Lookout track offers an easy 500-metre walk to a scenic viewpoint.

Saturday afternoon - what to eat, what to do

On the park's edge stands the Siding Spring Observatory, housing Australia's most extensive collection of optical telescopes. Discover the secrets of the solar system and the Universe at the interactive Exploratory Centre. Open exclusively during daylight hours, their last tour is at 2pm so make sure you book ahead. Stay for a snack and refreshment at the onsite cafe, which is open until 4pm.

Saturday night - what to eat, what to do

Like many country town’s, the ‘fancy’ restaurants are housed in local hotels. Before a dark sky tour there is the Imperial Hotel or the local bowling club or if you’re after a more intimate dining experience, then try the Acacia Motor Lodge Restaurant. This restaurant offers bistro-style cuisine in an exposed brick setting with high ceilings and a spacious skylight. The restaurant is fully licensed or if you prefer to bring your own, they welcome BYO with a small corkage fee.

After dinner be sure to book in for a star gazing night show at the Getaway Tourist Park to get the best view of the Milky Way. Nestle under the dark sky, and embark on a mesmerising 1hr 30mins journey through stars, planets, distant galaxies, shooting stars, and more.

Well, I hope we’ve inspired you to hit the road and head to Gulgong some time soon. Join us again on Country Calendar to discover how to spend 24 hours in Australia’s tiny (but terrific) rural towns. Till next time…

Fun facts

  • The Siding Spring Observatory is home to the largest optical telescope in Australia. 
  • The town was officially recognised as an International Dark Sky Park in 2016, the first in Australia.
  • The Warrumbungles are the remnants of a volcano, which was active from 13 to 17 million years ago. 
  • Warrumbungle is a Gamilaraay word meaning crooked mountain.
  • In 1972 a theme park called Miniland was opened in Coonabarabran, but there was nothing mini about it with giant dinosaur statues adorning the attraction. It has since closed.

Author:  
Jen McCutcheon

Jen grew up in Bathurst in central west NSW but now calls Gilgandra home. She lives on a mixed enterprise farm with her husband and two young children.

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